The Story Told by Ripples in the Sand

Somehow, orderly patterns emerge from the chaos of ocean waves

Beach at Sainte-Marie-du-Mont, France. Felipe Rodriguez/Universal Images Group/Getty Images

Aug. 17, 2023 12:06 pm ET

Physicist Helen Czerski explores the complex science behind familiar phenomena. Read more columns here.

It’s beach time of year, and although I’m not immune to the attractions of ice cream, Frisbee and splashing in the waves, the real reason I love any beach is that it’s both restless and calm at the same time. Looking out over the ocean almost makes time stand still, and the immensity catches you, an Earth-sized comfort blanket to put your worries into perspective. But beaches are also always changing. Every day, on the same walk, the sand looks different, renewed and refreshed. My favorite features are the ripples in the sand, because they have a story to tell.

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